Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Power Equipment season is ready to start....
Mr. Fix-its shop is turning the corner to spring....we are taking in garden tractors, walk behind mowers, trimmers etc...so far everything that is coming in is ethanol fuel related...the carburetors are ruined....i will get some photos....
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Friday, March 12, 2010
OBD gas leak codes
Common OBD Two Codes
One of the most common OBD two codes would be for the evaporative emissions system. These codes were designed by the manufacturer and mandated by clean air laws.
Basically this is that the fuel system on every automobile must be completely sealed. No longer are you allowed to vent fuel vapor into the atmosphere.
This means that a storage and burning system is necessary to properly handle the naturally occurring fuel vaporization process.
Depending on the year make and model of the vehicle the codes set will usually be in the P0400 range. These codes when set will help you determine what the problem with the system may be.
When the fuel vapor system is determined to be leaking the severity of the leak is measured. Individual codes may set for a small leak, a medium-sized leak, or even a large fuel vapor leak.
Also in the P0400 range of codes will be specific codes for the canister and purge valve functions of the evaporation emissions system. All of the failures in the P0400 range could be considered common OBD codes. Again depending on the year make and model of the vehicle. But I have seen failures in all parts of the evap at one time or another.
OBD two evap systems leaks
OBD two monitors the evaporative system by testing the ability of the fuel tank to hold pressure as well as purging the system to vent petroleum fumes from the charcoal canister storage device. The most common way that this pressure test is deployed is with a small pump.
In this type of system the powertrain control module tests the evaporative emissions system by energizing the pump. As pressure builds the cycling rate of the pump decreases. If there is no leakage in the system the pressure builds until the pump shuts off.
If there is a leak pressure does not build up and the pump continues to run until the test cycle is completed. If no leaks are detected by this test cycle the powertrain control module will move on and test the purge cycle.
Some systems have purge flow sensors between the solenoid and the intake manifold. In this case the PCM monitors the signal from the sensor once per drive cycle to determine if there is vapor flow at the proper levels into the intake manifold.
Note that on some GM vehicles enhanced monitors can detect leaks and restrictions in the system as well.
In these types of enhanced systems a poor sealing fuel cap or one that is missing is capable of turning on the check engine light.
The common gas cap obd two code
I’ve put together a video that discusses these common OBD two codes. Since the fuel cap is often removed for re-fueling this has become known as the weakest link in the system. Even if the gas cap is properly reinstalled the sealing ring between the cap And the filler neck can become nicked or worn over time. This often shows up as an Evap system code for a small fuel vapor leak.
Also keep in mind when you’re vehicle sets the gas cap Code the check engine light will remain on even if the problem is intermittent. It is necessary after the repair is completed to clear the codes and retest the system.
Labels:
automotive,
automotive advice
Thursday, March 11, 2010
beach buggy as the winter car....
Ms. Fix-it to the very right, her twin sister next to her, and older sister to the left. Their father always had VW bugs to use on the National Seashore on the Cape Cod shore in the summertime.
V dub on National Seashore in P Town in the 1960's....
On the dunes outside of P-town Massachusetts. In the distance the tallest stone structure in the country.
Saturday, March 6, 2010
rebuilding engine on air compressor
removed all covers and engine
air compressor pump
air compressor pump again....
regulator needs to be replaced
regulator housing
misc parts and covers
still waiting for several more parts.
Monday, March 1, 2010
Sunoco Racing Fuel 110 Octane
I have posted several different topics about racing fuel , and the lack of Ethanol in the fuel. Which extends the life greatly.
I was recently in Worcester Massachusetts and happened to cut through Highland Street when I took a wrong turn. I pulled in to get a picture of the pump and octane rating to show you and also the price. The sign said that they weren't getting another shipment until April, hence, the lack of posted price per gallon.
Octane on lower left shows 110.....RACE FUELS posted across the top and notice to the right on the bottom shows leaded race fuel.
My guess is it will be at least $8.50 per gallon this year. Last year it was $8.25.....we will see come April.
I was recently in Worcester Massachusetts and happened to cut through Highland Street when I took a wrong turn. I pulled in to get a picture of the pump and octane rating to show you and also the price. The sign said that they weren't getting another shipment until April, hence, the lack of posted price per gallon.
Octane on lower left shows 110.....RACE FUELS posted across the top and notice to the right on the bottom shows leaded race fuel.
My guess is it will be at least $8.50 per gallon this year. Last year it was $8.25.....we will see come April.
Looking for a heavy -duty vise.
We bought a vise for the fix-it shop about 15 years ago. We recently added a metal rolling table to the shop. Mr. Fix-it is going to rebuild a tranny soon and we redid this table to put the tranny on to roll it outside and work in the warmth and the sun if it ever gets here.....
So Mr. Fix-it wants to take our current vise apart and repaint , clean, re-lube it and put it back together.
I did not get a chance to get before pictures, but here are a few dismantled and a first coat of Bill Hirsch HI TEMP and HI GLOSS paint.
We started our hunt last Friday for an additional vise....all except 2 companies are made overseas....We started looking at several stores that we drove by on our trip through the city. Everything we found on-line and in-stores was made in Chine, India, Malaysia. We found one or two vise companies that still make their products in the U.S.A
I have requested information from them, there were no clear enough pictures on-line to see the quality so I have requested catalogs, I will keep you posted on that project. Also, the cost of the vises made in Asia all ran below $100.00 . The ones available in the U.S.A. all run between $200-$400. The Asian vises did not have removable pipe clenching jaws all the American made ones did.
The picture to the left is the base and spacer ring. Mr. Fix-it is going to do 2 coats before he bolts it on the new rolling transmission table.
I will keep you posted on how the search goes for the new vise for the bench in the shop. I actually had to resort to looking for a good used vise, because the stuff made 10 or 15 years ago is twice as heavy and double the quality. I think I may have found one in Rhode Island. It may be worth the couple hour drive......
So Mr. Fix-it wants to take our current vise apart and repaint , clean, re-lube it and put it back together.
I did not get a chance to get before pictures, but here are a few dismantled and a first coat of Bill Hirsch HI TEMP and HI GLOSS paint.
We started our hunt last Friday for an additional vise....all except 2 companies are made overseas....We started looking at several stores that we drove by on our trip through the city. Everything we found on-line and in-stores was made in Chine, India, Malaysia. We found one or two vise companies that still make their products in the U.S.A
I have requested information from them, there were no clear enough pictures on-line to see the quality so I have requested catalogs, I will keep you posted on that project. Also, the cost of the vises made in Asia all ran below $100.00 . The ones available in the U.S.A. all run between $200-$400. The Asian vises did not have removable pipe clenching jaws all the American made ones did.
The picture to the left is the base and spacer ring. Mr. Fix-it is going to do 2 coats before he bolts it on the new rolling transmission table.
I will keep you posted on how the search goes for the new vise for the bench in the shop. I actually had to resort to looking for a good used vise, because the stuff made 10 or 15 years ago is twice as heavy and double the quality. I think I may have found one in Rhode Island. It may be worth the couple hour drive......
Labels:
automotive,
automotive advice,
small engine repair
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